TASTE

Written by Betts Griffone, Photos by Jennifer Cappuccio Maher

Just the smell of a mesquite wood fire will bring on a raging appetite.

But add to that the taste of premium meats and fish cooked on that fire, and you have the reason why people have been returning to Anchos southwest Grill & Bar for the last 19 years.

Partner Dean Bergstrom says the quality of the meats and the fact that everything is made in house from time-tested recipes helps explain why the restaurant has such loyal customers.

Another reason is the friendly family atmosphere. Many of the employees have been at Anchos almost as long as the restaurant. some of the line chefs started as busboys working their way through the ranks, learning how to create signature dishes on the way up.

Marco Everett has been making the rice and beans for more than 17 years.

When asked for the recipe, Bergstrom smiled and said he wasn’t sure there was one. Everett starts putting things together, and it always turns out right.

Anchos was started by Bergstrom and two other restaurant business veterans. they were in texas at the time and decided it would be fun to start a place with a southwest theme.

Since then, Pepe Padilla has come on as a partner, adding his expertise to the mix.

The recipes come from all over texas and New Mexico. Bergstrom, who had worked in a seafood restaurant in Houston, was familiar with preparing and cooking both fish and meats, which came in handy when Anchos opened.

There have been relatively few changes with the menu at Anchos.

Some new things have been tried — among them, a tortilla soup and a no-bean chili, but those items didn’t catch on, so they were dropped.

Anchos does have specials, and at one time rabbit was offered — only because a guy nearby raised rabbits and offered to supply the restaurant. The rabbit dishes were popular, but they were dropped from the menu once the supplier stopped raising rabbits.

Customers continue to ask for it, but Bergstom decided to keep rabbit off the menu since the quality from other sources couldn’t be guaranteed.

Fresh salsa is made in small batches all day long. All of the vegetables — tomatoes, chilis and onions — are cooked on the mesquite grill, giving the salsa a rich flavor that can’t be duplicated. The salsa changes a little with each batch because of the sweetness of the tomatoes and the heat of the chilis.

Padilla is particularly proud of the baby back ribs. Anchos has its own barbecue sauce, and Padilla says the only problem is keeping the meat attached to the bones – the meat really is that tender.

Anchos also has its own take on chili relleno. Pablano chilis are used rather than Anaheim. They are roasted, peeled and stuffed with Jack cheese. Pablanos are used because they are meatier and more crisp than other chilis. Cinnamon and cloves are added to the sauce for a distinctive flavor.

Another Mexican favorite, fajitas, also has a unique taste. Peppers and onions are not included — unless you ask for them — and the tortilla machine, located in the center of the room, turns out fresh, hot tortillas all day long.

The restaurant itself is a large, open space. It has a definite cantina atmosphere with New Mexican red chili ristras on the walls and industrial looking lighting fixtures hanging from the ceiling.

Anchos is off the beaten path, but it is worth the effort. The restaurant has been around for nearly two decades because customers can always count on finding food they like.

Anchos Southwest Grill & Bar
10773 Hole Ave., Riverside
Lunch and dinner daily
(951) 352-0240; www.anchos.net

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Events - Venues - Dining